Applying and removing UV hair extensions:
the step-by-step protocol

Consultation and hair assessment

Before any application, carry out a full assessment of the hair and scalp. Examine the natural density, texture and condition of the client’s hair. Look for areas of scalp sensitivity, active breakage or recent chemical treatments that could affect adhesion or comfort. Agree the result she wants (volume, length or both) and the number of strand-by-strand bonds needed to achieve it naturally.

• Professional tip: EHE LIGHT™ adhesive works best on clean, dry hair free of products. Always ask your clients to arrive with freshly washed, completely dry hair and no conditioner, oil or serum.

Section, separate and clear

Start at the nape and work upwards in horizontal sections, row by row, with care. Make a clean, straight horizontal parting about 1 cm above the hairline. Hold all the hair above the section out of the way with clips. The width of each section and the spacing between rows directly determine how invisible the final result is: clean, even sections are the foundation of professional-level work.

• Professional tip: use the EHE LIGHT™ sectioning comb to make perfectly straight horizontal partings. Uneven sections are the most common cause of bonds showing on the scalp.

Choose and prepare the extension strand

Choose the extension strand that best matches the colour, texture and weight wanted for the client’s hair. If you are working with adhesive, keratin or sewn-in extensions, cut 2 mm below the keratin, adhesive or stitching to free the individual strands, and make sure the tip of the extension has no silicone coating in the bond area. See the advanced cutting technique described in the Hair compatibility section to get individual strands from a weft.

• Professional tip: match the weight of each extension strand to the density of the natural hair, section by section. Overloading a bond point is the main cause of early lifting and unnecessary tension on the natural hair.

Position the extension strand

Lay the prepared extension strand flat on the strand of natural hair, aligning the tip of the extension with the point where the adhesive will be applied. The extension must stay parallel to the natural strand, resting on top like a sandwich. The initial tack of the UV adhesive will hold the extension in place while you make fine alignment adjustments before curing.

Apply the EHE LIGHT™ UV adhesive

With the precision dropper, place one small, controlled drop of EHE LIGHT™ UV adhesive on the root section of the extension strands, where the bond will be made. The adhesive should sit about 1 to 1.5 cm from the scalp: close enough to stay invisible, but far enough to avoid any contact with the skin of the scalp. A single drop 2 to 3 mm in diameter is enough for a clean, secure bond.

• Professional tip: less is more. A drop of adhesive that is too large spreads when compressed and shows more. Work on the precision of the drop to get bonds so small they become imperceptible.

Spread the adhesive with the EHE LIGHT™ brush

Once the strand is positioned, use the brush included in the EHE LIGHT™ kit to spread the adhesive from top to bottom over the whole join between the natural hair and the extension, without getting any on the scalp. This step is essential: incomplete contact creates weak points in the bond. Even spreading also lets the bond stay flat and thin, and therefore discreet, even in close-up photos.

• Professional tip: a thin, flat bond is an invisible bond. Spread the adhesive evenly with the brush, without building it up in one spot, so that it does not spill over the sides.

Cure with UV light: above and below

Place the EHE LIGHT™ UV device directly over the bond, making sure the light opening is within 1 cm of the adhesive. Activate the device for 6 to 8 seconds on the top, then repeat for 6 to 8 seconds on the underside to ensure full curing and a firm bond. A properly cured bond feels firm to the touch and is not tacky as soon as the cycle ends. No additional drying or setting time is needed.

• Professional tip: keep your hand steady throughout both curing cycles. Movement during exposure can leave an edge not fully cured. In cold or humid weather, lengthen the curing time slightly to guarantee full curing.

Work section by section and finish the application

Continue strand by strand along the current row, spacing the bonds evenly with about 1 cm of natural hair between each bond point. Once a full row is complete, release the next horizontal section and start the next row about 1 to 1.5 cm above the previous one. For a natural result, the standard approach is to work from the nape upwards, applying rows until you reach the density and length wanted, usually stopping about 5 cm below the crown so the bonds are not visible in buns and ponytails.

• Professional tip: stagger the bonds from one row to the next, like bricks: those in row 2 should sit between those in row 1. This layout stops a row of bonds showing as a distinct horizontal line in the style.

Prepare the removal area

Section the hair with the same system of horizontal rows used for the initial application. Start with the highest row and work down, in the reverse order of application. Working from top to bottom stops extension strands that are already released from tangling with the bonds lower down. Prepare the EHE LIGHT™ removal solution, the EHE LIGHT™ removal tool, the professional removal device set to 120°C, a fine-tooth comb and a bowl of lukewarm water to rinse the strands.

• Professional tip: never force a removal. EHE LIGHT™ adhesive is designed to release cleanly when the protocol is followed: specific removal solution, heat activation at 120°C and controlled removal.

Apply the EHE LIGHT™ removal solution

With the precision dropper of the EHE LIGHT™ dry adhesive removal solution, place 3 to 5 drops of solution directly on each bond. Make sure the solution penetrates the whole structure of the adhesive: the top, the sides and the base of the adhesive point. Wait a few seconds for the product to start weakening the cured matrix before activating the bond with professional heat.

• Professional tip: the solution must penetrate before you apply heat. Work precisely and avoid saturating the natural hair beyond the bond point.

Activate with professional heat at 120°C

Apply heat with the professional removal device set to 120°C. This heat activation speeds up the breakdown of the adhesive and helps the bond open cleanly without pulling excessively on the natural hair. Keep the tool well controlled over the bond area and always stay at the stated temperature.

• Professional tip: do not replace the heat the protocol calls for with mechanical force. A correct removal combines the specific removal solution, activation at 120°C and controlled separation.

Check the bond before removing it

After activating the removal solution with heat, gently test the first bond by pressing it between your thumb and forefinger. A properly weakened bond feels soft, slightly gel-like and clearly compressible, very different from the rigid feel of a fully cured bond. If the bond stays hard or resistant, add 2 to 3 drops of removal solution and repeat the heat activation at 120°C before testing again.

Carry out the controlled removal

Once the bond is fully weakened, place the EHE LIGHT™ removal tool on the upper edge of the join, the point closest to the scalp. With a gentle, controlled downward sliding movement, guide the tool through the bond. The extension should slide without noticeable resistance and release from the natural hair without pulling, tearing or friction.

• Professional tip: if you feel resistance as you slide the tool, stop immediately and repeat the removal solution and heat at 120°C. Resistance means the join is not ready yet, not that you should press harder.

Remove residue from the natural hair

After releasing the extension strand, a small amount of dissolved adhesive residue may remain on the strand of natural hair. Place 1 to 2 drops of removal solution on this residue and let it soften for 30 seconds. Then use the fine-tooth comb to gently slide the residue from the tip towards the root of the natural strand. Any remaining adhesive residue will come away cleanly, leaving the strand of natural hair completely free of residue.

Rinse, assess and finish

Once all the bonds are removed, ask the client to rinse her hair thoroughly with lukewarm water and a gentle sulphate-free shampoo. This removes any remaining trace of removal solution and prepares the natural hair for an immediate new application or a rest period. Make a final assessment of the hair and scalp: the natural hair should be in the same condition as at the start of the wear period, or better. Let the hair dry completely before reapplication if a new application is planned for the same day.

• Professional tip: a well-maintained EHE LIGHT™ application should protect the natural hair. If you notice breakage or dryness in the natural hair, check whether the extensions were applied at the right weight and whether the client followed the aftercare recommendations.